A Walk through Little Edo in Kawagoe: Must-Visit Love Shrine

撰文：Emily

Kawagoe, located in Saitama Prefecture near Tokyo, is a hidden gem that transports visitors back to the Edo period, over 400 years ago. Known as "Little Edo," Kawagoe offers a charming atmosphere where visitors can stroll through ancient streets, rent a kimono, and experience the taste of old Japan. A key attraction is the Hikawa Shrine, famous for bringing love and romance, drawing many Japanese women seeking blessings in their relationships.

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How to Get to Kawagoe

Kurazukuri Ichibangai Street showcases Kawagoe's historical architecture.

Kawagoe is just a 30-minute train ride from Tokyo's Ikebukuro Station via the Tobu Tojo Line, followed by a short bus ride to the main attractions. It’s recommended to buy the Kawagoe Discount Pass Premium, priced at ¥1,050 for adults and ¥540 for children. This pass includes a round-trip between Ikebukuro and Kawagoe, and unlimited rides on the Koedo Loop Bus and designated Tobu buses for the day.

Step Back into the Edo Period

The Kurazukuri Ichibangai Street is the heart of Kawagoe's historical area, lined with old storehouses and two-story buildings that date back to the Edo period (1603-1867). Once a key hub for transport and trade, today this area is home to shops and eateries housed in traditional buildings. The street’s most iconic landmark is the Toki no Kane (Time Bell Tower), which originally was built by Kawagoe’s lord, Sakai Tadakatsu. After being destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt in 1893, and now chimes four times a day—at 6 a.m., noon, 3 p.m., and 6 p.m.

The traditional shops and their vintage signage add to the nostalgic atmosphere.

Taste Traditional Delights

Kawagoe is famous for its sweet potatoes, which were a staple of Edo-period cuisine. Visitors can find a wide variety of sweet potato-based treats, including daigaku imo (candied sweet potatoes), sweet potato jelly, chips, and ice cream. Another local specialty is unagi (grilled eel). Some restaurants in Kawagoe have been serving fresh unagi for over 100 years, offering a unique taste experience. For those who prefer a small portion, takeout stalls offer mini eel bowls, allowing visitors to sample this delicacy while leaving room for other snacks.

Kawagoe's famous sweet potato treats make great souvenirs.

Tossing Rings for Good Fortune

While Kawagoe preserves its historical charm, its shrines are surprisingly modern and fun. A 10-minute walk from Kurazukuri Ichibangai brings you to Kumano Shrine, where you’ll find a small pond where visitors can cleanse their coins for good luck. One of the shrine's most popular attractions is a ring-toss game where visitors can aim for specific areas representing love, career, health, wealth, and wish fulfillment. For just ¥10, you get three rings, and the area you land on determines your fortune for the day. The shrine also offers fortune slips categorized by blood type and zodiac sign, adding an interactive twist to traditional fortune-telling.

The mascot of Kumano Shrine is a popular attraction.

Fortune-telling based on blood type adds fun, modern twist to the shrine’s offerings.

The ring-toss game offers a playful way to test your fortune.

Kawagoe Kumano Shrine

The Ultimate Love Shrine: Hikawa Shrine

Hikawa Shrine is a bit farther away, so it’s recommended to take a bus.

Hikawa Shrine is a favorite among women dressed in kimono, making it a perfect spot for photos.

A 15-minute walk from Kumano Shrine, Hikawa Shrine is the ultimate destination for those seeking love blessings. The shrine dates back over 1,500 years and enshrines two married deities, making it a popular spot for visitors hoping for romantic success. One unique activity here is fishing for tai (red snapper) fortune dolls, with “tai” symbolizing good luck. Most visitors fish for the red snapper dolls, but for those seeking love, a pink version is available. The shrine also features a cleansing ritual called “hitogata nagashi,” where visitors can transfer their bad luck to a paper doll and release it into the shrine’s waters for cleansing.