Hong Kong's Sham Shui Po is a haven for the World's Oldest Bing Sutts

Embracing tradition, the space lacks opulent embellishments, featuring only simple and functional tables and chairs. Upon entering, one is greeted by the yellowed décor and gently weathered layout, evoking a sense of cherished nostalgia that beckons visitors to linger in this foreign city, reluctant to depart.

The food at Wah Nam embodies a human touch and serves as a communal gathering spot for neighbours.

Famed for its signature milk tea, Wah Nam clinched multiple awards

Wah Nam seamlessly integrated into the Sham Shui Po neighborhood, you have to look up to see it when walking on the street. The Wah Nam boasts a quintessential old-style appearance typical of traditional Bing Sutt. Nesltled at 87 Kwai Lin Street, this establishment boasts a legacy of over four decades. Upon stepping inside, a wave of nostalgia reminiscent of 1960s and 1970s Hong Kong engulfs visitors. From the vintage seats, tables, and air conditioners to the unique water bar layout and the distinctive yellow-green stripes adorning the walls, each element evokes a bygone era not commonly found in modern Hong Kong.

Yellowed walls and slightly worn-out layout, evokes a sense of nostalgia and familiarity.

On a particular visit, we indulged in simple yet delectable pineapple buns and the nearly extinct “Cocoa”. The pineapple bun doesn't have butter inside, but the bun is filled with rich butter taste. After taking the first bite, the aroma of butter has already spread from the bun. You don't even need to add butter separately; it's already sweet enough. It tastes like a sweet bun, but when you put it in your mouth, the flavour becomes more intense, suitable for friends who like sweet food but don't want to consume too many calories.

Cocoa is a perfect match with pineapple buns. Cocoa is made with cocoa powder. Its Cantonese name “ 唂咕 ” is believed to come from "Cocoa." Distinct from overly sweet hot chocolate, it resonates more with Ovaltine or Milo, boasting a richness akin to dark chocolate with a subtle bitterness amidst its sweetness.

The harmonious pairing of the sweet pineapple bun and the slightly bitter milk custard proves exceptional and highly recommended. When the sweetness of the bun overwhelms the palate, a sip of “Cocoa” offers a perfect counterbalance.

The milk tea at Wah Nam is renowned for its excellence, making it a must-try. A must-try at Wah Nam is their renowned milk tea, celebrated for its unique preparation. Focused on the tea base with milk as a complement, the milk tea here isn't prized for its smoothness but for the lingering tea essence with a delicate sweetness. If you lean towards a tea-forward experience, this milk tea is sure to entice your taste buds.

The accolade-winning milk tea at Wah Nam Ice Room is a result of meticulous craftsmanship. The person in charge once revealed that Wah Nam's milk tea requires a precise blend of various sizes of Ceylon black tea leaves, the water must be sufficiently hot, and the teapot must be covered and steeped for a few minutes, among other meticulous procedures. Without these careful steps, Wah Nam's milk tea wouldn't be so outstanding.

The small green and red plastic discs are specifically designed to hold the buns.

Wah Nam Cafe ( 華南冰室 )

Address: 87 Kweilin Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong

Tai Lee Café spacious setting for extended tea sessions and chats The signboard and entrance of Tai Lee retain old fonts, giving it a historical charm at first glance. Located at 30 Pei Ho Street, Tai Lee Cafe has a longer history than Wah Nam Cafe, spanning approximately sixty years with a new owner taking over five years ago. Stepping into Tai Lee Cafe, one is greeted not only by its nostalgic decor but also by the familiar scent of Bing Sutt, reminiscent of childhood memories.

This place also serves as a retreat for the old neighborhoods of Sham Shui Po. With ample seating and a relaxed atmosphere, Tai Lee Cafe is a haven for extended chats without the hustle of a bustling crowd. Its old-style floor tiles, wooden chairs, and aged electrical box contribute to its themed café ambiance.

With its vintage fans and electrical boxes, it creates a nostalgic ambiance, almost transporting you back in time. In contrast to Wah Nam Cafe, Tai Lee Cafe's milk tea leans towards a milkier profile, where the smooth and sweet milk takes the spotlight over the tea, offering a flavor more reminiscent of milk with a touch of tea.Based on the taste, if the milk-to-tea ratio at Wah Nam Café is 3:7, at Tai Lee Café it's probably around 8:2. Friends who prefer more milk than tea might prefer to have milk tea at Tai Lee Cafe.

Before fully regaining focus, the server brings the earlier ordered fried fish fillet salad to the table. The strong aroma of the fish fillet indicating that it was just taken out of the , while the slightly charred hot dog caters to those with a penchant for such flavors.

The hot and fragrant fried fish fillet makes for a perfect tea time snack. The milk tea here is also delightful, characterized by its thick milk that outshines the tea. The slightly burnt hot dog at Tai Lee cater to those who enjoy this flavor profile.

During a weekday afternoon visit to Tai Lee Cafe, two sets of afternoon tea were enjoyed over nearly two hours in a serene setting, evoking a vibe reminiscent of the Bing Sutts of the 1980s and 1990s, where meals were savored without rush, akin to scenes from classic Hong Kong gangster films.

On weekdays, the ice room is not crowded, reminiscent of the atmosphere in the 1980s and 1990s. There's no pressure to hurry and leave after your meal. It truly evokes a sense of old Hong or transports one into the realm of Hong Kong gangster films, where vital discussions unfold within the walls of Bing Sutts.

Tai Lee Cafe ( 大利冰室 )

Address: 30 Pei Ho Street, Sham Shui Po, Hong Kong

Shet Shan over seventy years of history offers a variety of hot dishes Shet Shan has a longer history and is almost seventy years old. The decor here is much more modern, with a touch of pop art influence. Originally, Bing Sutts only served snacks, but later on, they gradually started offering hot meals, becoming similar to cha chaan tengs (Hong Kong-style tea restaurants). However, there are also cha chaan tengs that use "Bing Sutt" in their name as a marketing strategy.

Shet Shan has a history of nearly seventy years. Their menu includes a wide selection of stir-fried noodles, rice dishes, and side dishes. Essentially, it operates as a cha chaan teng, despite carrying the name of Bing Sutt. What sets Shet Shan apart from the two Bing Sutts mentioned earlier is its wide selection of hot food, making it particularly suitable for those with hungry stomachs. They also offer a variety of fried and pan-fried snacks. Although its recent renovations have modernized its appearance, Shet Shan retains its charm.

An afternoon tea set for two people, inclusive of two beverages, costs only HKD 72, which is more affordable than anticipated. During a visit, a two-person snack combo and two hot drinks were enjoyed for just 72 Hong Kong dollars, offering a pleasantly affordable experience. The freshly fried french fries boasted a crispy exterior and a soft, smooth interior akin to mashed potatoes, paired with flavorful salt and pepper chicken wings. The coconut jelly and peach in the salad provided a refreshing contrast to the wings' saltiness.

While Shet Shan's seating area is relatively narrow and tends to fill up in the evenings due to its extensive hot food selection, it remains manageable for short stays. For more leisurely dining experiences, Wah Nam Café or Tai Lee Cafe might be preferable. However, if a quick rest or a satisfying meal is needed after a long day of shopping, Shet Shan is a worthy choice.

Shet Shan ( 雪山冰廳 )

Address: 62 Castle Peak Road, Hong Kong