Sham Shui Po's fabric market offers customized products in a theatrical setting - Fly GBA

Sham Shui Po's fabric market offers customized products in a theatrical setting

撰文/攝影:WenEr
Sham Shui Po, despite being a grassroots area in Hong Kong, hides many treasures. Apart from delicious and affordable street food, it is also a haven for fabric enthusiasts. Hong Kong used to have a thriving light industry with numerous textile factories, and Sham Shui Po was one of the textile industry hubs. While Hong Kong is no longer known for its textile industry, the historical fabric communities that remain are scattered throughout the streets and alleys of Sham Shui Po. Today, the area still houses the "Sham Shui Po Fabric Market," where over 50 fabric vendors set up stalls surrounded by layers of fabric, exuding a nostalgic Hong Kong movie atmosphere.

Layers of fabric create a distinctive charm

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Today, this market stands as a testament to the evolution of commerce and community, where the threads of the past interweave with the fabric of the present, creating a tapestry of cultural richness and heritage.


Back in 1978, there were fabric vendors selling fabrics around Yen Chow Street. Due to the Hong Kong government's need to construct the Sham Shui Po MTR station, these vendors were relocated to a temporary site at 373 Lai Chi Kok Road, known as "Pang Jai" (棚仔), where nearly 200 fabric vendors operated at its peak, creating a lively atmosphere. In 2005, the government planned to reclaim the "Pang Jai" site, leading to years of struggle between the authorities and the vendors. Eventually, the fabric vendors moved to other locations to continue their businesses, with one of the main spots being the temporary street market on Tung Chau Street, about 300 meters away from the original site, now renamed as the "Sham Shui Po Fabric Market."

 

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Within the market, wooden frames stacked with fabrics create a scene of organized chaos, forming a charming and picturesque setting.

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Among the 50 fabric vendors in the fabric market, more than ten of them are vendors who relocated from "Pang Jai." In the hollowness market, rolls of fabric are stacked on wooden racks, creating a disorderly yet organized display. While these fabrics are meant for business, they unintentionally become picturesque scenes. Amidst the dense fabric folds, there is a corner where an elderly lady is focused on sewing, the rhythmic sound of the sewing machine drowning out the noise of the cars outside, bringing a sense of familiar peace.

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Amidst the tightly packed bolts of fabric, glimpses of a corner reveal an elderly woman diligently sewing garments.


Unique fabric crafts bring a touch of Hong Kong to the streets

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Many of the fabrics showcase distinct Hong Kong characteristics, making them ideal for visitors enamored with the essence of Hong Kong.

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Upon closer inspection of the fabrics, many feature unique patterns, such as the popular Hong Kong MTR station designs. With vibrant colors displaying names like Yau Ma Tei and Tsim Sha Tsui, these fabrics are particularly charming for tourists who enjoy checking in at MTR stations or Hong Kong locals who are about to leave and wish to carry a memento. Some fabrics are imprinted with Hong Kong street sign patterns or symbols of nostalgic Hong Kong items. These fabrics can be crafted into wallets, crossbody bags, backpacks, and other products, allowing people to carry a piece of Hong Kong with them.

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Additionally, there are other unique products for sale, such as handbags with exotic designs, backpacks hand-sewn from denim jeans, small pouches made from Japanese-style fabrics, and tie-dye fabrics popular among young people. If you're looking for bags or backpacks outside of chain stores, you might find unique products here, mostly handmade and less likely to clash with what others are carrying, reducing awkward encounters.

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Many of the fabrics showcase distinct Hong Kong characteristics, making them ideal for visitors enamored with the essence of Hong Kong.

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I spoke with Ms. Ho, the owner of a fabric stall ,Shun Cheong Piece Good CO(信昌疋頭), who mentioned that if customers have a particular fabric in mind, they can have customized items created, entirely handmade by a seamstress, often an elderly lady, who earns a small income from sewing for others. For those who can't wait, there are pre-made items hanging near the fabrics, such as backpacks and tote bags, available for immediate purchase. Just like how primary school exercise books used to have the "Multiplication Song”(九因歌) printed at the bottom for children to memorize, there are fabrics with similar designs at the market, made into eco-friendly bags, serving as a nostalgic memory for Hong Kong residents.

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Using the fabric from the Nine Songs exercise book covers to make eco-friendly bags is a nostalgic way for Hong Kong locals to reminisce about the past.

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Sham Shui Po Fabric Market

Address: 269 Tung Chau Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon

Office Hour: 10:00-18:00


Searching for treasures in the Jade Market tests one's appraisal skills
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The jade market and fabric market are located on the same street, just a few minutes' walk apart.


Leaving the fabric market and walking southeast (towards Prince Edward) along Tung Chau Street for a few minutes will lead you to another unique market in Sham Shui Po - the Jade Market. Similar to the Jade Market in Yau Ma Tei, this market features jade vendors selling a variety of items such as jade stones, bangles, pots, pearl necklaces, ancient coins, stone lions, and statues of bodhisattvas, exuding an ancient Chinese vibe. 

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For those unfamiliar with jade, distinguishing between genuine and fake stones can be challenging. It's best to bring along a friend who has knowledge about jade when visiting the market.
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These stalls are often a mystery to locals as they keep their treasures hidden, as outsiders may not know how to distinguish between genuine and fake items. The items on display rarely have price tags, adding to the mystery. Vendors typically assess customers first, testing their knowledge of stones and jade before engaging in sales pitches, with prices fluctuating based on the customer's interest. Customers often need to haggle with the vendors before completing a transaction. It's important to note that even if an item is priced high, it may not necessarily be authentic, making it easier for foreign visitors to make purchasing mistakes.

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The joy of discovering a treasure through one's own expertise is incomparable to the experience of shopping in well-known chain stores with established reputations.


If you're interested in hunting for treasures here, it's best to gather information beforehand or bring along an expert who might help you find hidden gems at a lower price. In these mysterious places, the thrill of buying a desired item through your own efforts is a joy that you likely won't experience in reputable chain stores.

 

Tung Chau Street Jade Market

Office Hour: 06:00-22:00